The case of the missing lace.

I wanted to visit Isola Maggiore after I read in Frances Mayes’ book, Under the Tuscan Sun that ladies sit out in the sun making lace. Cool.

This lady is in Anghiari, not Isola Maggiore
This lady is in Anghiari, not Isola Maggiore

The only time I have ever seen that before was also in Italy – last year in Anghiari.  It was a step back in time to watch the detailed work.

Of course, Isola  means “island” and to get to it, Lulu and I took a ferry across Lake Trasimeno, Italy’s largest, but lesser known than its more written about lake cousin, Como.


Once a thriving fishing and agricultural village, Maggiore is now more populated by tourists than by year-round residents.  Fewer than 70 people live full-time on the island.


So, what did we find?


An 18th century palazzo named in honor of Lulu’s real name, Isabella.


Unfortunately it was closed for remodeling.  We only got as far as the rusted metal gate.


We also found a private beach.


And the weather was still warm enough to entice Lulu, not me, to strip and wade in.


We discovered an ancient stone carving that denoted the fraternity of the “happy dead.”  Their novel mission was to give even poor people a proper burial.


And Lulu found a nice shady place to rest.

But no ladies and lace.. I guess we’ll have to go back.  Maybe Frances will come with us.

You can come too!

Baci, Gina

Copyright 2013 Gina London. All rights reserved.


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